17 July 2011

There's No Place Like Home....Unless it's Amsterdam!

Not wanting to chance the last close call in departing Oslo airport a week & a half ago, we had a very early wake up call on Monday morning.
The Oslo train station is undergoing some renovation this summer.
Flybussen is the best option (at $60 per person, one way.....by the way) to get to the airport.
The first pick up point was at our hotel, insuring we had seats. By the end of the route, the driver was turning people away with a promise of 'another bus in ten minutes.' There were people standing down the center aisle and people sitting on the step between the door & the driver. AND the driver was on her CELL PHONE while she was driving. An interesting ride for sure but we arrived in plenty of time to catch our flight to Amsterdam.
Being in Amsterdam is now like being 'home' to us. We are comfortable there. We recognize shopkeepers & more & more, they recognize us too. Always a thrill for us!
A quick visit with Bruce (building owner), a change of clothes & we were off!
The Monday Textile Market is held on Westerstraat. This market seems much bigger than in the past. It now goes beyond the end of the street, wraps around the corner & encompasses much more than textiles. As usual, we wandered through - it's fun to see all the bright colors & smell the foods (oranges & loempias were prominent on this day)
Assured that we did not need a thing, we continued on to visit our friend Sara at her pancake restaurant. This restaurant is just a little hole in the wall. Not the best food, not the fastest service, on the expensive side....but still....it's Sara's! And we love visiting with her. On this visit, she told us we should really move to Amsterdam. That way, she said, she can visit us every day & be like our daughter.
From Sara's, we made our way over to the Dam Square. It is always a busy area & this day was no exception.
Summer crowds & nice weather equal big audiences for the street shows. Balloon creatures on one side, a violinist (we bought his CD) performing & the now requisite(apparently) 'watch me get out of this strait jacket' performer.
We wandered Spui Straat & Kalverstraat before heading back home.
A quick stop at my favorite drug store in Amsterdam - Etos (now in 'our' neighborhood) and then -
WAIT....WHAT IS THIS????? What is this big yellow sign across the street? No more Super de Boer market? We knew it had been sold but still....what a surprise to see JUMBO on a big yellow sign. We had to investigate this newcomer. Inside we found (as the cashier pointed out)....a lot of YELLOW! Beyond the signage, a very nice, modern grocery store. Nice change. We were only there for 2 nights & the apartment is always well stocked on our arrival. We bought a few things for a snack & headed back.
Visiting with Allen is always something we look forward to on our visits. This trip we were able to spend part of each night chatting.
We decided to be adventurous on Tuesday & head for an area we had never been before. Our destination was De Hortus Botanicus (the botanical garden). About an hour away by foot - we headed out under bright sunny (OK, WARM) skies. The gardens themselves were a bit underwhelming to me.
An afternoon snack of vlaamse frites (french fries) was our next stop. Another market appeared on our walk home - in the Waterlooplein area. I'm sure the vendors move from one market to another. Much of the same that we saw at the textile market. Still, had to walk through it.
Arriving in the Leidseplein for our fries I saw something I have been wanting to see in Amsterdam for many years! A Starbucks! YEAH!!! We figured they were moving into the city when we saw one open at Central Station last year. Prior to that, the only one we knew of was at the airport!
Our final night in Amsterdam, we went to a local favorite of ours, Kinnaree for Thai food. Always excellent service & great food. A nice way to wrap up our quick visit.
Wednesday morning we thought we would take a walk through the parks before heading to the train station. Mother Nature had other ideas. Rain, light at first, turning heavier was consistent all morning. We walked through light rain (trying to commit the cool temps & rain to memory in preparation for weather at home) to mail a package home. After that, we went back to the apartment to finish packing, have lunch & wait until it was time to head out. Just spending 2 nights did not seem right!
We took a 3:15 train to Brussels, arriving right on time & checking into our airport hotel.
We took a taxi into the city to meet Bruce for a very nice dinner at Le Petit Boxeur. Good conversation, good food - what more could you want!
With the luxury of an 11:00 a.m. flight, we did not have to hurry on Thursday morning. Our flight was good - and afforded us the opportunity to watch (& recommend) 2 more movies. The first 'The Adjustment Bureau'. It is an excellent 'makes you think' movie. The second, 'Win Win' - a movie I had not heard of previously. It was very good - worth watching.
2 hours in Chicago and then 2 more hours home. Brian - our greeting committee/ride home was waiting for us when we arrived. One of the best reasons for being home - our people!
That's a wrap for our summer European adventure. As always, it's good to be home. As always, it's still Texas in the summertime. 100+ for the past several weeks & many more to come. As always, we are already starting to think about the next adventure. But still, there's no place like home.

10 July 2011

You got it, HER perspective again.....

Last day in Oslo. With the comfort of air conditioning & a lingering cold, sleep was on my mind last night. And not going anywhere in a hurry this morning was also a big priority.
Lingering rain showers made sure we did not get an early start.

Gulls in Scandinavia are extremely vocal



First stop, the Resistance Museum (Norges Hjemmefront Museum)
It is a very well displayed museum highlighting Norway's occupation and resistance in World War ll. It was interesting to read about Quisling and how the war effected Norway. From my perspective, they played a small role. I don't know that they over did it on Norway's war efforts in the museum. Let's just say they are very proud of themselves.
Good for them!
From the museum, we wandered over to the castle of Akershus 
fortress, where Quisling was executed in 1945. We only had time for a fast peak into the rooms....closing time was imminent.

A stop in front of the Nobel Peace Center to listen to 4 street musicians who sounded like they did the score for "Some Like it Hot". Right out of the 1920's. 



Pasta at an Italian restaurant completed our quiet afternoon.
Looking forward, as always to our (brief) stop in Amsterdam.
Beyond Amsterdam, as always, there is no place like home!

Her Perspective....again!

#3 Her perspective, he's been working on pix
Again, playing catch up. Two 12+ hour days of touring & a cold have left me way behind!
The Midnatsol docked on schedule in Bergen at 2:30 Tuesday afternoon.
A taxi to the Hotel Terminus which has an added benefit of being literally across the street from the train station. We checked into the hotel & we were ready to see Bergen.....the gateway to the fjords.
With a lot planned in Bergen, our first stop was to buy fjord cruise tickets. We ate dinner outside - beautiful harbor nearby, brightly colored buildings dotting the hillsides & a lot to explore. But back to the fjords.
First up, early Wednesday morning, a 5 hour boat cruise to the Sognefjord. It is Norway's longest(200km) & deepest fjord. Absolutely beautiful scenery all around us. The majestic fjord, the waterfalls, the tourists all trying to manipulate their way to the front for the money shot....oh, wait, maybe that was not part of the beauty. Just human nature.
Sognefjord




The fjord was nothing short of spectacular. During the cruise an announcement was made for passengers connecting to another town. Our ferry met another in the middle of the fjord, a gangway was connected between the ferrys and several people transferred to the other ferry. Novel.
The boat docked at the small town of Flam (at the end of the Sognefjord with a population 400 which looks to explode into the thousands with tourist season). On this day, there were 2 large cruise ships in port.
We had about an hour to wander around before boarding the UNESCO World Heritage train that would take us up into the mountains(800m) , through 10 tunnels, stopping for a photo op at the spectacular Kjosfossen waterfall. Above the waterfall there was music & suddenly a dancing woman appeared....or did she?


Kjosfossen siren


Here's what we were told - The dancing woman of Kjosfossen is known as a 'huldra' (Nordic mythology).
She is similar to the sirens of old roman/greek mythology. She lured men into their doom with her stunning beauty & beautiful song but in real life she's an ugly troll.
The train took us to a city train which took us back into town. All told, gone about 12 hours. Hungry, but not willing to go too far, we had a mediocre meal at our hotel.


Thursday morning was fjord day #2 - Hardanger fjord. This time, we were headed for a train that would take us to a bus. The bus went high into the mountains, manuevering through switchbacks after switchback. Once we encountered a big rig.....the rig backed up to make room for the bus.
All along the way, beautiful summer cabins with lots of flowers, stunning waterfalls and steep cliffs.
The first of two boats took 30 minutes out to Eide. We were there 3 hours. With about 30 minutes until yet another bus tour, we were encouraged to visit the local mseum and also watch a 20 minute movie.
Not a fan of stuffed animals in nature diorammas......& preferring to spend the time outside, we made it a quick tour. we opted out of the movie.
The next bus took us on a 2 hour tour up to the fabulous Voringsfossen waterfall. I think this is where we both decided Norway is one of the most spectacular places we have ever seen. 
Voringsfossen






We are always reluctant to name a 'favorite' place....everything has its own unique appeal. New Zealand & South Africa always rise to the top of our list. Now, Norway is right up there as well. In NZ we decided we were just out of adjectives. We are very close to feeling the same way about Norway. This is a country I would love to see again. A driving trip, outside of the big cities has been added to the bucket list.
From the waterfall, the bus took us to our boat. A 3 hour boat ride back to Bergen. A really good dinner at a Chinese restaurant ended a wonderful day.
Hardanger Fjord




Friday, our final day in Bergen was when we finally had time to see Bergen. A 45 minute wait for the Floibanen (funicular) took us to the top of Bergen for a beautiful view of the city below. After just 10 minutes or so on top of the world, the skies opened up & we ran for the funicular going down.
Wandering around Bryggen, the wharf area took us several hours. There were shops to visit, cappucinos to drink sitting outside & souvenirs to purchase. A few minutes before closing time we walked into Bergenhus fortress. Some of its buildings date back to the 1200's.


Bergen byrgge




Venturing out for dinner in the rain (one of the few rain showers we have encountered) to a restaurant about 15 minutes away turned out to be just a walk in the rain. Closed for the summer.
Back to another Chinese restaurant near the hotel. This turned out to be another very good meal & interesting conversation with its 23 year old owner. Born in China, raised in Norway, he plays & follows basketball. He commented on Bob's Mavs shirt - but sadly, from the perspective of a Laker fan. Across from us, a couple from Houston who now reside in central California.
Friday morning we took the 10:30 train from Bergen to 'almost' Oslo. 'Almost' because the Oslo Central rail station is under construction this summer & closed for 6 weeks.
Another spectacular train ride filled with gorgeous scenery for the next 5 hours. A lot of this scenery I viewed through closed eyes.....giving in to the exhaustion of fighting a cold while travelling. What I did see....nothing short of magnificent.
The train stopped in Honefoss where buses waited to take us the final hour to Oslo.
Back in Oslo, we decided Italian food sounded good. Turns out, the #1 restaurant on Trip Advisor for Norway is.....Italian (weird). Off we went, in search of Ruffino's. A wrong turn, a quick stop to confirm our directions at the tourist office & we were there. And......it was closed for renovations. Strike 2 in restaurnt planning!
There were plenty of options to choose from in the area near Radhuset, city hall. Borggarden Biffrestaurant, featuring steaks from French Limousin beef turned out to be an excellent choice. I am normally not a big beef eater - this was excellent & I enjoyed every bit of it. The piece of cheesecake we shared for dessert....not so much. It had a strange gelatin layer on top of it & basically no flavor! We were able to sit outside while we enjoyed our very good dinner. Turns out one of the waiters is Danish, born in the same city as our brother in law, Frank. Cool!
From dinner, a leisurely stroll back to the hotel, admiring flowers that are blooming everwhere. Enjoying the cool temps, such a contrast to what awaits us at home!
Last day in Oslo....this trip is coming to a close very quickly.

06 July 2011

Her perspective, yet again!

Alesund to Bergen

We had a nice conversation about Alesund with Mr. Dalen who sat between us on the flight. His family owns the local butcher shop. They have owned it for over 100 years. He gave us a tip on where to go for dinner. The 'nicest place in town', he said.
We arrived at Alesund airport on schedule. Picked up bags, got on a city bus & headed for the docks. There, one of the warehouse men assured us we could leave our bags & pick them up when we boarded the boat. I was a little unsure of leaving them but the idea of dragging a rolling bag for 6 hours on cobblestone streets was way less appealing!

Alesund, around 10PM


Dinner at a local fish restaurant 'Sjobua'  (Mr. Dalen's recommendation) was very good. We tried to stretch the meal as long as possible. This tiny town was pretty closed up & we could not board the ship until close to midnight.
It was cold, damp & drizzling when we finally gave up & just sat down at a closed up outdoor bar to wait for the ship.
Finally a few more people started to show up & then the ship arrived. I was certainly not expecting a cruise ship. This was a beautiful boat & our room for the night was very nice, with a porthole window.

For various reasons, Bob's cold, middle of the night text messages & phone calls (yup, Europe is STILL several hours ahead of the U.S.) & heat in Helsinki neither of us had slept well since we arrived. Plans to stay up & watch the boat pull in to the small ports along the way were given up for sleep. The cabin was cool, the boat rocked slightly & I think I slept 6 hours without moving. 

Breakfast was a typical cruise free for all.....but eventually we found a table & ate. 



For the next 5 plus hours, we sat on the deck watching the passing scenery as we made our way to Bergen. The air was cool, the sun was warm, the ocean was beautiful! And Bergen is amazing!

05 July 2011

Her perspective

I am somewhat of a reluctant blogger this go around. Because of that, here's one big 'ole long post!
Europe in the summer has become somewhat of a new norm for us. Two years ago, Stockholm with the Jensen's. Last summer, Switzerland was awesome. This year, Scandinavia came up on our radar. Frank & Jill were already planning a trip to Denmark. The idea of another Jensen/Kilian summer rendezvous .....sounded good!
To say we have been looking forward to this trip is a huge understatement. This has just been a year full of challenges....not such good ones! Helen's hospitalization & the aftermath, including her move to assisted living, the loss of Mookie & our good friends moving away.....it was nice to have this trip to plan for, a little diversion.
June 25th arrived very quickly. The days and weeks leading up to the trip were hectic but fun. A quick trip to Florida followed by another to Tulsa. Lots going on at home the week before we left, including a visit we were not sure would happen.
Shortly after we made plans to leave, we heard through April that Ryan would be home from Iraq on R&R. He would arrive either the day we left or one day before. We were thrilled when Ryan, April, Bri & Jess were all able to join us for a welcome home celebration for Ryan the night before we left. Awesome!
Bright & early Saturday morning, we were out the door. A quick flight to Chicago, short time on the ground & we were off to Helsinki. My only knowledge of Finland was that it is our good friend Hannele's birth place.
As I am playing catch up with my perspective on this blog, I will leave this entry as an overview. Bob has already added detail. Good thing one of us was motivated.
Helsinki was a nice city. The people were exceptionally nice. We had the added bonus of Frank, Jill & Ryan joining us.
As a group, we took a boat ride to Estonia. We had a fun day wandering around, looking at markets, beautiful flower gardens, goading Frank  into giving us a tour. (no, he had never been) An outdoor lunch in the square & some souvenirs completed our day.
After the boat ride back to Helsinki, we enjoyed a late night meal as recommended by the staff at our hotel. Helsinki seems unlike other European cities in the summer. It seems to close up early. A long, late dinner was not the rule, as we saw it. Not a lot of people out enjoying the long summer evenings.
An added bonus during this time was a picture sent from Brian. Of his final audit from UNT - He is 'officially' a college graduate. We are incredibly proud of him & his accomplishment. Great news!!!
Thoughts on our trip to Vyborg. Russia...... The Evil Empire, the 'duck & cover' drills from 1st grade (would that truly have saved us from anything?).....Boris & Natasha, 'The Butter Battle Book' by Dr. Seuss, Get Smart and Agent 99......come on, RUSSIA! REALLY? How cool that we could actually go there....even for a few hours! And so off we went, making our way by train to the charming Finnish lakeside city of Lappeenranta.
Anytime I can be on the water, I love it. This was 5 hours to Russia, going through a series of 8 locks. The locks were really interesting & the 5 hours on the boat passed quickly.
Just a few hours in what looked to be a small port town that has seen better days. Wandered through a few markets & shops, bought a few souvenirs & had lunch. But it was RUSSIA and we each have two passport stamps to prove it. Coolness factor....thru the roof! 
Back in Helsinki, Ryan, Jill & I wandered through the Lutheran Church and over to an outdoor market. A few more purchases and off to a local restaurant again recommended by the staff.
We were able to sit outside & have dinner. Such a bonus for all of us this time of year. The wait staff was charming, the meal was good with lots of good conversation. We tried homemade vodka shots, served on what looked like a ski with individual holes in it. Another drink recommended by the waiter - gin & grapefruit juice drink was pretty good! Bob even 'won' a special shot with the best line of the night. It was so good, I have apparently forgotten it! There may have been a little (too much) drinking but since nobody was driving, a good time was had by all.
A stop at the ice bar (Frank, Jill, Bob & I had a 'cool' time there two years ago in Stockholm) was just that...a quick stop. This was a very small ice bar - the only coolness factor came from the temperature. A stop for Irish coffee & back to the hotel to call it a night. Fun evening!
Our visit to Turku the next day included a delayed train, excessive heat, a rain shower, a walk through the local cathedral and a Medieval market. And then back to Helsinki & up to the bar!
As we often do on the last night of a visit with Frank & Jill, we sat with wine in hand reflecting on life. Always interesting discussions & good times.




Cheers from Oslo
Saturday morning, Frank, Jill & Ryan had an early departure from Helsinki to start making their way home......thus missing our 8:00 a.m. call from Sean & Teena. And my proclamation that 'someday' had just arrived. It is official - they are engaged. And we could not be happier for them!


Cheers from Austin








Arriving in Oslo, temps are slightly cooler than Helsinki....big plus. Oslo grabbed me in a way that Helsinki did not. Sorry Hannele! It is a very pretty city with a lot going on. Lots to see & do here.
Upon arrival we walked over to the Hard Rock to get Bob's must have souvenir, an Oslo t-shirt. After lunch, we wandered over to Akershus Castle. From the City Hall, the bells rang on the hour. A little Saturday night humor possibly when they played 'When I'm 64'.



Sean & Teena, with their wonderful news were on our mind already this day.....and then we saw the wedding party on the castle grounds. The party paraded through the grounds, followed by the bride & groom in a horse drawn carriage. Magical.
From above, we heard music by the water. We sat outside with ice cream cones & later wine, listening to a band. It was really a nice day....we got our mojo back....something I had just felt was missing in Finland. And the best was still to come!
On Sunday, we decided to go to Frogner Parken, a huge park near our hotel. Within Frogner is Vigeland Park, a statue park. Amazing statues & flower gardens all over. We sat down on a bench to get our bearings. Immediately a young Polish couple visiting with their 2 small children struck up a conversation. What do you think of Obama? A lively conversation ensued.
Next stop, the cafe for a couple bottles of water. Inside, a young man noticed Bob's Mav’s shirt. He had just moved here from Boston. He mentioned the big 4th of July party going on at the park. WHAT?????
We followed the music of a band playing everything from Springsteen to The Doors to Steppenwolf. For the next several hours we listened to music, tried to eat 'Texas' brisket (not so much), and looked at booths of red, white and blue that were raffling, selling & giving away. Such FUN!
Classic American cars were on display. We spoke with a man who shipped his classic car to the states & drove Route 66 with a group of friends.
Leaving the park to 'God Bless America' was the perfect end of the afternoon. Dinner at a very good Chinese restaurant was a great ending to a great day.
This morning (Monday), our last in Oslo for a week. We took the 2 hour ferry around Oslo. Not as pretty as the Stockholm archipelago cruises, it was still fun. Back to the hotel to pack & get organized for our flight to Alesund, Norway.
We got on the SAS Flybussen at about 3:15 for our 5:10 departure. It is an hour bus trip & we hit traffic. LOTS of traffic. But as I finish this post, we are descending into Alesund. Made the flight. Hopefully our bags did too!
Tonight is our adventure on a boat to Bergen. We board close to midnight, arriving in Bergen mid afternoon tomorrow.

30 June 2011

Welcome to HEL

We arrived in HEL on Sunday morning after a 9 hour flight from Chicago, during which we watched “The Company Men”. Even though it’s been 4 yrs since I played corporate, the movie pointedly reminded me of how many I saw escorted out the door with their lives contained in one cardboard box. Can’t say that I miss that world.

In HEL, we were fortunate to get a room by 1100, took a nap for several hours and headed out in late afternoon for a short walk around. We headed toward town past Helsinki Cathedral which was built in the mid 19th century perched on a hill. Further on we came to the Esplanade, a fairly large park lined with “Foofoo” shops and several restaurants. 
Frank, Jill and Ryan arrived from Copenhagen Sunday evening. We had picked the Kappeli restaurant on the Esplanade for a late dinner of smoked reindeer, fish and Finnish chicken. Late that is for Americans. I had assumed that Helsinki restaurants would be open late as in other European cities, but the kitchens started closing around 10.

The 5 of us decided at breakfast that Monday would be the day to take the ferry to Tallinn, Estonia…and the ship left from the other end of town in 45 minutes. We made it and 2 hours later docked in Tallinn, which until 1991 was the capital of the Estonian Soviet Socialist Republic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHD5nd3QLTg
Tallinn Market Square
A few references to the soviet era are displayed for tourists, such as the Soviet museum, a few Ladas and the “KGB Hotel”. We had 5 hours in Estonia and moved on to old Tallinn, which has been fortunate to avoid destruction during the Russian and German invasions. Frank took us on a tour of the town, stopping at a restaurant on the square for a bite to eat, past the castle, up and down small roads and back to the ferry. We had a very late dinner of Finnish hash and meatballs and mashed potatoes. Not a bad meal.

On Tuesday we split from Frank, Jill and Ryan. We had bought tickets for an all- day cruise from a town in Finland named Lappeenranta to a town named Vyborg. We took the afternoon train from Helsinki for the 2 hour ride to Lappeenranta. We walked by the lake to find tomorrow morning’s dock, had burgers and ice cream and had an early evening.
Wilson preps for Russia
Wednesday morning started with a 530 wake-up call for our 745 departure, Today’s trip is a 5 ½ hour cruise down the lengthy Saimaa Canal from Lake Saimaa to Vyborg. During that cruise we would pass through 8 locks and drop a total of 80 meters in elevation. Locks are fascinating. We would enter the lock, stopping short of the doors in front of us. The doors behind us would close, the water would drain and then the front doors would open and we would cruise out to the next lock to repeat the process. About 1/3 of the way to Vyborg, we passed a cut in the forest, where the trees had been cleared to indicate the border between Finland and Russia. Finland to the left, Russia to the right. The allure of this cruise was that we could go to Russia without a visa. A short visit, but these children of the cold war could say they went to the home of the enemy, the evil empire! These guys were the reason we routinely dived under our desks as school kids, and we were on their turf. Would the KGB or it’s successor follow us everywhere?
Lock doors, going up
Vyborg was a bit of a shabby port city, at least in the area where we were. We stopped at the CafĂ© Respekt for a good lunch and a photo-op for Wilson. The city had quite a few abandoned buildings in various states of disrepair. We went to the market square shops which had everything from meats and veggies to clothes and tourist trinkets. Alas, no Vyborg t-shirts as I had hoped, but we did find a Vyborg snow globe for Brian’s collection. We slowly made back to the boat. After 5 ½ hours, 8 locks and a rise of 80 meters in elevation, we arrived back in Lappeenranta.

It feels warm in HEL, although not as hot as the nuns threatened. Maybe it’s a perceived heat. Perceived because I, or we, are spoiled with A/C. Just about everywhere we go in the US we are climate controlled. The temperature here is by no means hot, especially by Texas standards. It’s between 75-85F. But where’s the A/C? The hotel in HEL says it has A/C, however whatever adjustment you make the temp (about 24C) stays the same or goes up. The front desk says to turn the fan to “3”, however the noise from the unit remains constant and no more air emerges. I’m typing this on the train from Lappeenranta to Helsinki. It has lots of air vents, that make lots of noise. But they are fixed position and cannot be moved towards you. Two little kids just stood on their seats attempting to move the vents, to no avail. The woman sitting next to Nancy is slowly taking her clothes off. Of course my laptop, Nancy’s IPAD and all the other electronic devices don’t contribute to the heat. As we exited the train, I saw a thermometer on the wall, which read 32C (89.6F). Maybe the heat is not completely a perception problem, but as I said, we’re spoiled…..and I bitch a lot.